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Passengers on the deck of the Banjul-Barra ferry approaching the north bank of the River Gambia.
Photo: Mishimoto · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY

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Shared bush taxis and minibuses called gelly-gellys cover the coast and both banks of the river, a rented car works if you are prepared for rough roads, and the one crossing to plan around is the Banjul-Barra ferry over the River Gambia. The Gambia drives on the right, as shown in the facts box on this page.

Bush taxis, gelly-gellys and getting between towns

Shared bush taxis and gelly-gelly minibuses are the backbone of Gambian public transport, running fixed routes along the coast road and up both banks of the river, and leaving once they fill up rather than to a timetable. They are the cheapest way to cover ground and the way most Gambians travel, but expect a wait to fill the vehicle, a cramped ride, and stops at every town along the route rather than an express service. In the resort towns, green tourist taxis and yellow-and-green local taxis both work the streets; agree the fare before you get in; the cost guide covers typical taxi pricing and haggling norms.

The Banjul-Barra ferry

There is no bridge near the capital, so crossing the River Gambia between Banjul and Barra on the north bank still means the vehicle ferry run by the Gambia Ports Authority. It is a scheduled service, but both the UK and Dutch governments flag it as frequently overcrowded with safety and reliability concerns: the UK Foreign Office warns the ferry is often overloaded with substandard safety measures and life-saving equipment, and that vessels have become stranded on sandbanks, while the Dutch government’s advisory adds that one of the two vessels on the route falls short of European safety standards and is not recommended. Both advisories separately flag small wooden pirogue boats offered on the river as an informal alternative to approach with caution: the UK Foreign Office advises checking that a pirogue has life jackets on board before travelling on one, and the Dutch advisory says they are not always reliable and safe and tells travellers to check for life jackets. If the ferry runs aground, the FCDO’s advice is to get out of a parked vehicle quickly rather than wait inside it.

Avoiding the ferry: the Senegambia Bridge

Upcountry, near Farafenni, the Senegambia Bridge opened on 21 January 2019 and runs about 1.8 km across the River Gambia, carrying the Trans-Gambia Highway between the north and south banks without a ferry crossing. The UK Foreign Office suggests it as an alternative to the Banjul-Barra ferry for travellers heading between the two banks, though it is a detour east of the capital rather than a direct substitute for the Banjul-Barra route itself; it suits a river trip upcountry better than a coast-to-coast day crossing.

Driving yourself

Self-driving is possible but not something either government recommends without caution. The UK Foreign Office describes driving standards as poor, roads as often severely potholed, and lighting as poor after dark, with some local taxis not roadworthy; unpaved rural roads can also flood in the rainy season, June to October. The Dutch advisory says not to drive yourself in the Gambia if you are not used to driving there.

If you bring a foreign driving licence, the UK and Dutch governments agree it is valid for up to 90 days after arrival; after that you need a Gambian or international driving permit, obtained from the police licensing division with proof of residency, your valid licence and a copy of your passport.

Practical tips

  • Agree a bush taxi or gelly-gelly fare, or confirm a tourist taxi’s meter or fixed price, before you set off.
  • Allow extra time for the Banjul-Barra ferry queue, and treat an informal pirogue crossing as a worse option, not a faster one.
  • If your route is near Farafenni, check whether the Senegambia Bridge makes more sense than the Banjul ferry for that leg.
  • Keep your foreign driving licence valid for your whole stay in mind: after 90 days you need a Gambian or international permit.
  • Avoid driving unlit rural roads after dark, and expect unpaved routes to slow down or flood in the rainy season (June to October).

What to check before you go

  1. Whether your itinerary needs the Banjul-Barra ferry at all, or whether a route via the Senegambia Bridge avoids it.
  2. Current conditions for the ferry and any river crossing close to your travel dates, via the UK or Dutch government advisories.
  3. How long your trip runs against the 90-day foreign driving licence window, if you plan to drive yourself.
  4. Whether you are confident driving yourself given the road and lighting conditions after dark, since the Dutch government advises against self-driving if you are not used to conditions there.